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Comments on the MSR Denali Ascent snowshoes

Martin Nelisse

martin@nelisse.org

 

Pro's (do not change or at least do not remove):

 

Con's (need some changes to make the snowshoe better):

 

Some comments and suggestions from my side for solutions to the problems

 

The rubber bands tend to flap around

Although it might be seen as a minor annoyance, during walking and especially in the high mountains with lots of wind, the rubber bands tend to flap around.

 

 

A solution for the loose ends could be to put a small plastic holder on the bands, so one can fold back the band after it has gone through the metal buckle and stick it below this holder (just like the band holders on some of the backpacks).

 

 

The rubber bands can disconnect during walking

It happened to me once that during walking, I lost one of the rubber bands (without actually noticing it myself).

 

 

A solution to prevent disconnection of the bands from the plastic buckle, is to replace the plastic buckle by an identical but metal buckle and equip this metal buckle with an additional pin just like the existing metal buckle. This way one can push this pin through one of the holes in the band, to prevent the band from slipping through the buckle.

 

 

The Saber teeth are hard to tighten in case they come loose

It happened to me two times that I lost a Saber tooth during a hike in steep and rocky terrain.

 

 

A good solution to make it easier to tighten the Saber teeth could be to give the Saber teeth 2 flat spot, to facilitate the use of a wrench (and a Philips screwdriver) to fasten the Saber teeth. An easier and cheaper solution could be to use a glue (like lock-tight) to make it less likely that the Saber teeth comes loose during the walking, this would in fact prevent the whole thing from happening.

 

The size of the opening in the deck platform is not big enough for all shoes

For some model of shoes the opening in the deck platform is not big enough and causes wear and tear on the shoes, deck platform and binding. This is especially the case with some shoes which are already relatively long and wide (e.g. in my case: 'Meindl Perfect', US size 11).

 

 

 

The damage on the nose of the shoes particularly happens when one has to place ones shoes to the very front of the snowshoe, in order to be able to place the heel on the heel lifter. When using leather shoes, the leather is severely damaged by regularly usage of the snowshoes.

 

 

The damage on the sides cased by usage of wide shoes happens both on the binding and the deck platform.

 

 

 

A solution could be to change the size and layout of the opening in the deck platform, eg an extension to the front and wider near the rotation axis.

 

The place of the heel lifter does not fit all shoes equally well

For the smaller shoe sizes, the heel lifter hits the heel at the very end of the sole of the shoe, for even smaller sizes it might be the case that one cannot use the heel lifters at all, since the heel of the shoe might end before the point where the heel lifter is placed in the vertical position. For the larger shoe sizes, the heel lifter hits the heel at the very beginning of the sole of the shoe, for even larger sizes it is the case that one cannot use the heel lifters optimally, since the heel lifter does not hit the heel of the boot (but the lower middle section of the sole).

 

 

A simple solution for this problem could be to simply extend the footplate to a length that it always reaches the point where the heel lifter is in its vertical position.

 

 

The front of the shoe sometimes hits the nose of the snowshoe

During walking the shoe sometimes moves slowly forward in the binding. At some point in time the nose of the show will hit the front of the snowshoe and the nose of the shoe gets damaged. Particularly this will happen when one has to place ones shoes to the very front of the snowshoe, in order to be able to place the heel on the heel lifter.

 

 

A solution could be to equip the front of the footplate with a small rim, so that the shoe will not be able to move over this most forward position. This would even facilitate the positioning of the shoe on the snowshoe when it is put on.

 

The choice and design of the plastic to go around the shoe is not optimal

The early MSR Denali Ascent models used a hard plastic to hold the shoe. Especially in the cold, this plastic was not flexible enough to hold the shoe in a tight fit. Furthermore eventually the plastic showed cracks and broke down. The new more flexible plastic used on the newer MSR Denali Ascent models is better, but I think not resistant enough for normal wear and tear.

 

 

While walking my shoes tend to slowly move forward in the binding, causing the nose of my shoes to hit the decking. Furthermore while walking, my shoes tends to rotate slightly after fixation, which causes additional wear on the black plastic. On the places were the plastic bends on the edges of the sole of the shoe, the plastic shows tears and even some holes (see also other point).

 

A solution could be to use a flexible but stronger material, but maybe an improved design of the binding with a more tight fit could provide a better fixation of the shoe and thereby less wear and tear issues.

 

The metal of the footplate and crampons is not strong enough

On my MSR Denali Ascent after approx. 4 weeks of snowshoeing a 0.5 inch long crack appeared in the metal plate, close to the point of the rotation axis.

 

 

A solution would be to use a stronger material.

 

The heel lifter are hard to put up (especially with gloves)

Even the new rubber flap which is connected to the heel lifter of the newer MSR Denali Ascent models does not help much (it tends to move to the sides).

 

 

An easy solution would be to extend the rectangular hole in the grey plastic just behind the heel lifter, to under the heel lifter. In that case it is easy to put ones fingers in the hole and pull the heel lifter up. Maybe this interferes with the current fixing of the flotation tails, in that case maybe to separate holes can be used.

 

PS:

I heard similar complaints about putting down the heel lifters. I use the 2 circular holes for this purpose, I stick one of my ski poles in one of the holes and pushes it backwards, as a result the heel lifter is put back to its low position. So keep the two holes in place.

 

 

The locking positions of the heel lifters tend to deform

The locking holes of the heel lifters tend to deform or wear out. This means that the heel lifters will reach a less vertical position and in time will not be able to provide ample heel lift.

 

 

A solution would be to use a shell of harder plastic or better metal in the locking positions of the heel lifters at the end of the grooves in the grey plastic.

 

The opening angle of the snowshoe is a bit too large (when doing fast downhill runs)

The angle between the shoe and the snowshoe which you can make when it is totally opened is controlled by the form of the metal footplate at the point of its rotation axis.

 

 

An easy solution would be to limit this angle a bit further by adapting the form of the current end stop position on the metal footplate.